The envelope description refers to it as a "can-can petticoat" because the ruffles are stitched to the underside of the of the petticoat, giving a "can-can" effect when it's lifted up.
The main part of the petticoat is cut as a circle skirt, and the ruffles are stitched to the inside of the skirt in three tiers. Most of the skirt is on the bias, which is, I believe, part of the reason that the stitching lines cause the fabric to pucker. This doesn't bother me too much, however, because the only part of the petticoat that will show is the underside, if at all.
The materials that I used were:
-Cotton sateen
-Petticoat netting
-1/4-inch wide ribbon
-1/4-inch wide bias binding
-hooks & eyes (to fasten waistband)
Details:
I used French seams on the side seams of both the skirt and the ruffles to completely enclose all the raw edges. To finish the bottom edge of each ruffle, I stitched 1/4" wide ribbon to the wrong side, having the ribbon just cover the raw edge. I then turned the ribbon to the right side and stitched it into place, where it completely enclosed the prickly edge.
On the wrong side of the ruffle, slightly overlap the raw edge of the net with the ribbon, and stitch along the edge of the ribbon that is farthest from the raw edge of the net.
Next, fold the ribbon to the right side of the the ruffle and stitch into place.
I also covered the raw, gathered edge of the topmost ruffle with a 1/4-inch wide bias binding to minimize irritation (this can be seen in the fourth photo from the top).
Pattern Changes:
I added several inches to the side seams and waistband, as the sizing was a bit too small. I also modified the side placket opening to be slightly deeper, making the opening sufficient enough for me to not have to wiggle my lower body into it ;)
The waistband was originally one inch wide, but I narrowed it to 5/8-inch in order to decrease bulk and make it more comfortable. I also fused the waistband with interfacing, even though the pattern instructions didn't call for it. This will hopefully lend a little stability.
When I cut the ruffles, there were many small sections that were supposed to be cut and joined together. But for each tier, I cut the pieces end-on-end, as suggested by one of the reviewers at Pattern Review, so that I would only have to sew the side seams of each ruffle. It saved me a lot of time!
Finally, I shortened the entire petticoat by one inch (I had planned on doing this ahead of time, so I applied the ruffles one inch higher than the original stitching lines).
All in all, I enjoyed this project, even though sometimes it may have seemed like I would never finish adjusting and pinning gathers on the eighteen yards of netting! I hope to eventually wear it with another retro project I've been working on. Hopefully it won't be too long before I'm able to post again!
