Spring Dress Progress

The main panels of the dress have been cut out, and the bodice is now partially assembled!  As I mentioned in my last post, I'm going to skip the front pockets, so before laying out the pattern, I made a simple alteration to the front skirt panel to compensate for the fabric that would be missing at the upper front corner.

All I needed to do was aline the front pocket piece with the front skirt piece at the waist and side seams and pin them together.

The first step in assembling the bodice was interlining the bodice panels - front, midriff, and back - with cotton batiste. The pattern dose not say to do this, but the fabric that I'm using happens to have a little spandex in the crosswise grain for stretch, and in order to use the border print, the dress must be cut on the crosswise grain. If the bodice is not stabilized somehow, it will soon stretch out of shape. The pattern instructions do seem compensate for this by simply including the bodice lining in the waistline seam, putting the lengthwise stress on the lining rather than the fashion fabric. However, I'm plan to line the entire dress and want to use the lining to conceal the zipper tape, so the option of interlining seems better, in this case.

After pressing the pleats in place, I stitched through both layers along the inner crease of each pleat to keep the layers from separating (since the stitching is nestled inside the pleats, it won't show once they're basted in place).

Here's the bodice, with the front and back seamed at the shoulders. The repeat in the border print happened to be spaced just perfectly for cutting the bodice front with two roses at each shoulder. How neat is that?

A New Dress For Spring. . .

Over the past week I've been working on a dress for Spring! I'm using Simplicity 2886, which I bought last year during a pattern sale.

I had hoped to make a summer dress with it, but since couldn't find the right material for the design, it was added to a pile of patterns with a similar plight. Fast forward to late September, when I crossed paths with a bolt of ivory sateen, printed with navy dots and bordered with roses:

It immediately brought the Simplicity pattern back to mind, being similar to the print used for View A. This dress should be fairly simple to fit; so far I've done a muslin of the bodice with a SBA, and it doesn't seem to need any other changes (yay!). I'm afraid I'll probably be skipping those cute pockets, though. I'd rather reduce visual bulk there, if I can ;-)

Vogue 8663 - Teal Knit Dress

These photos (much belated, I'm afraid) are of a knit dress that I made back in late January/ early February. I haven't posted them until now because I'd hoped to take better ones, but as it looks like I probably won't be taking more in the near future, I'll just let my dress form do the modeling for this post. ;-)



The pattern for this dress is Vogue 8663, from the Very Easy Vogue collection. For the fabric, I used a teal cotton/spandex knit from Spandex World, basically the same type of fabric that I used for the Jalie camisoles (the color is actually a bit darker than shown in these photos).



As simple as the dress is, I did make some changes to both the pattern's fit and construction process. First, I made my typical short waist adjustment to the pattern tissue, removing 3/4" at the lines provided. Next, when cutting the material, I used size 10 for the upper bodice and sleeves, but left a little extra room in the side seams but cutting between sizes 10 and 12 on the bodice and skirt panels. I also eliminated the center back zipper by cutting the back pieces on the fold and added several inches to the hem, as well.

When assembling the dress, my construction differed from the instruction sheet quite a bit. I wasn't so sure about finishing the neckline with woven bias tape as suggested, so I tried experimenting with a 1/4" with clear elastic. Unfortunately, it did not work well and left me with a distorted and over-stretched neck opening. In the end, I decided to pick out the elastic and salvage the dress by stitching a self-fabric band to the neckline.



Aside from the neckline, I also changed the order of the garment construction. Instead of completing the bodice side seams and setting the sleeves "in the round" before adding the skirt, I started with the shoulder seams and neckline treatment. Next, I hemmed the sleeves and set them into the armholes, leaving all the side seams open until after I added the skirt panels, so that I'd be able to stitch the sleeve seam, underarm, bodice side seam and skirt side seam in one continuous line. This sequence simplified the assembly by making it easier to maneuver the panels through my serger -- especially when setting the sleeves.

When all this was complete, I did go back and tweak the bodice fit by taking in the front of the side seams at the underarm, to eliminate a bit of bagginess. Afterward, all it needed was a bit of trimming at the hem or a more flattering length.



Standing alone it was a bit plain, so I tried accessorizing the dress with a belt as illustrated on the pattern envelope. . .



. . . which really made a difference!

Happy New Year!

Just thought I'd put in one last blog entry before this new year (I've been having computer issues lately, so my posts have been few!). This is a dress I made to give as a Christmas gift this year. It's from a pattern called "Felicity's Pretty Clothes"; it was originally published by Pleasant Company for their 18-inch dolls, but now that it's been discontinued, it's available for free download at American Girl Playthings.



The pattern recommends taffeta, but it also worked for my dull-finish satin.



Instructions are included for making an alternate "stomacher" for the bodice, as well.



I love the pattern's dropped shoulder seams and shaped waist detail:



I even made one in pink!



The dress consists of three pieces (not including the alternate stomacher): dress, overskirt, and stomacher. The underskirt sits at the waist, and the dress fastens at the front where the stomacher piece snaps in place.



It's a neat little pattern, although the sleeve trim, skirt pleats and center back waist line can be somewhat tricky. The ribbon trim that goes around the neckline and down the front is pleated and sewn in place by hand, so it is a bit time consuming. One thing I wanted to mention, though, is that the doll for whom the dress is intended needs to be carefully measured and compared to the pattern's waist circumference. The amount of tummy fluff varies from doll to doll, and these patterns have basically no ease (even a doll needs a little wiggle room!) Overall, I really like this design. Aside from a few notions, I was able to make these dresses almost entirely out of scraps of leftover material.

Dotted Blue Dress

It's been so long since the last update to this blog, but finally, here is another finished dress project. I have to admit I actually finished it sometime this past April or May, so this post is long overdue! Things have been somewhat busy lately, making my projects almost as sparse as my blog updates, but here's to hoping things will soon "pick-up" again :-)



The design for this dress comes from New Look 6824 and is a combination of the pattern's options for a full skirt, a square neckline, cap sleeves, and a broad sash (views H, A, F, and J, respectively). The fabric is a border-printed cotton from JoAnn's.

Details. . .
Fit alterations/design changes
I made a "muslin" test garment for fitting purposes and found that I actually didn't need to make too many dramatic changes. I made my typical short waist adjustment, did an SBA on the princess seams, and added a little hip room by widening the skirt panels a bit.

I also redrew the neckline to be slightly higher, at the same time giving the corners a more rounded shape. Since the skirt is cut with the border along the hemline, I used the fitting stage to determine the dress's length, as well. I made it slightly shorter by removing 1-inch from the bottom of the skirt panels.

Fabric/layout
The cut of fashion-fabric was about three to three and half yards long and 50+ inches wide, with the border printed along both of the selvages. It turned out to be just about the right amount, though I did need to spend some time spreading the pieces over the material and adjusting the layout, in order to fit in all of the pieces and match the border print at the center back skirt seam. Having a border along both of the outside edges made it necessary to squeeze all of the bodice, sleeve, and sash pieces into the middle of the yardage, so a single-bordered material might require less length (but even then, the layout can be affected by the fabric's width, nap, or the distance between repeats in the border pattern).

Other details
The entire dress is lined, rather than having only a bodice lining as directed by the pattern. I did this by drafting A-line shaped panels for the skirt and seaming them to the bodice lining at the waist. Additionally, I made swing tacks to connect the hem of the lining to the hem of the dress.

Conclusion
What I love most about this pattern is the full, pleated skirt and the big bow at the waist! It also offers many design options and is fairly simple to construct. I really enjoyed making it and find that it's fun to wear, as well.

Cross-hatch Denim Jumper

This is a jumper from Simplicity 4097, made using a cross-hatch denim with a slight stretch.

Materials:
-Denim (cotton/spandex)
-Cotton lining
-Interfacing
-Invisible zipper
-Thread

Fitting Alterations
I made a muslin to test the fit of the garment and took a tuck in each of the skirt panels when cutting it out, on account of my short waist.

The first fitting issue was that the entire bodice was hanging too low, with the lowest part of the front neckline running along the bust line. To fix it, I took up the shoulder seams until the bodice was centered over the bust line, as it fits in the photo on the pattern envelope. Afterward, I lowered the back neckline and armholes back to their proper positions, since taking in the shoulder seams had pulled them up too high. I eventually lowered the pocket stitching lines on the skirt, as well.

The next adjustment involved an excessive amount of fabric in the back, where the jumper was very baggy from shoulder blade to . . . um. . . well, never mind. I eliminated most of it by taking a small amount out of the empire waist seam in back. The only alteration after this was to add a bit of room in the hip area.

Construction
The denim I used had a bit of stretch along the cross-grain, so the horizontal seams had a tendency to stretch out of shape under the pressure of the machine's presser foot. To prevent this from happening at the "waist" seam, I basted a strip of bias-cut broadcloth (with all of the elasticity pressed and stretched out of it) along the seam line before seaming the bodice to the skirt.

Also, when lining the bodice, I kept the lining free from the zipper and waistline seams, rather than including it as the instructions say. This way, I could turn under the seam allowances and slip-stitch it over those seams later on.



As mentioned above, I did use a bit of interfacing, even though the pattern didn't call for it. I fused it to the upper pocket edges to prevent stretching and the zipper area for a bit of stabilization.



Overall, this jumper was fairly simple to assemble, and I love it when I get a chance to add a bit of color to the interior of a garment with a contrasting floral print. . .

Catching Up: Rust Orange Shirtdress

This past summer I worked on a shirtdress project that was originally inspired by a dress worn by June Cleaver (Barbara Billingsley) in the vintage television show, Leave it to Beaver. It was full skirted, had bais-cut sleeves, and - the feature that attracted me the most - a pair of hip pockets with overturned flaps.

I started out by searching for a pattern to use so that I could make something like it, and this is what I found:



It wasn't a "carbon copy" of June's dress, but it was close enough to where I could use it as a base to be adapted to the design I liked.

The original dress was made of a printed material with small motifs arranged in a striped pattern. Since I couldn't really find anything close enough, I decided to try using a Rust Orange Shirting from Fashion Fabrics Club that features a subtle, tone-on-tone stripe.



Materials:
-Striped shirting fabric
-Batiste (for interfacing)
-7/8" wide Grosgrain ribbon (for waistline stay)
-Buttons (photo below)

Pattern Alterations:
First of all, I had to resize the pattern. It was a size or two larger than my measurements, so I graded it down using these instructions from Sensibility.com.

I also made a few fitting changes for my figure, which included taking extra room out of the bodice (SBA), making a short-waist adjustment, and adjusting the darts in the back of the bodice. I had to play around with the back and waistline darts a bit; I even had to take them in a little again - along with the side seams - when the dress was nearly complete.

To conform the pattern to June's dress design, I flared all of the skirt pattern pieces to be wider at the hem. I turned the sleeves and cuffs on the bias, too. In the original dress, it looked like there was a seam down the center of the sleeve, creating a chevron pattern with the bias-cut grain, but my fabric was a little too thick to make this feature work smoothly, so I cut each sleeve in one piece, instead. For the pockets, I needed to incorporate the pocket pattern pieces into the side/front pieces of the skirt, rather than attaching them as patch pockets. This caused me to split the side/front skirt piece in two - a top piece which meets the bodice at the waistline (and part of which is also the inside of the pocket) and a bottom piece (which makes up the rest of the skirt portion). I also made the pocket pieces to buckle slightly outward, so that they would stand out a little.

Construction:
For the most part, the construction was fairly simple - basically assembling the bodice and the skirt, then seaming the two together and working on the collar and button placket. I followed the instructions rather loosely, but I did use a sew-in interfacing, as directed. I didn't receive very positive results when I tried fusing the fabric with interfacing, so I used batiste by basting it to the wrong side of the areas that needed interfacing.

Originally, the collar/under collar pattern was supposed to be cut all in one piece, with a fold along the outer edge, but I made a separate under collar piece. This allowed me to make the under collar piece an 1/8" smaller around the outside edges so that the seams would pull slightly toward the underside of the collar, where they won't be seen. While I was at it, I decided to cut the under collar in two pieces on the bias, with a seam down the center.

(This picture is probably the most accurate in representing the actual color of the dress.)

I also stitched a waistline stay to the seam allowance of the waistline to help support the weight of the full skirt:



Last but not least, a better view of the buttons. They're not very easy to photograph because they're somewhat glittery and glow when I use the camera's flash. They're not quite as dark as they look below, but this is the best shot I could get ;-)

Butterick 4790

For a quick project this earlier this year, I used Butterick 4790, more commonly known as the "Walk-Away" dress pattern.




If you look at the line drawing on Butterick's website (linked above) you can see that this dress is basically like an apron. It goes on over the shoulders, then the front of it fastens in the back, and the back fastens in the front. The inner layer fits like a sheath dress. . .


. . .And it's fastened with a button and loop at the center back:



Details:

I was basically "testing the waters" with this version (thus the not-so-original color scheme). The changes I made to this pattern were adding about an inch on each side where it fastens in the back so that the edges would meet, taking in about a quarter of an inch at the shoulder seams (doubling to half an inch), tucking out a bit of length for my short waist, and removing a bit of excessive fullness at the bust.

The only detour I took from the instructions was to miter the binding at the corners of the dress rather than stopping at each of the corners and turning under the edges.

This pattern is pretty simple to sew and went together quickly, though I took my time with the binding. Unfortunately, the fabric and binding don't really seem to compliment my coloring, and even after my alterations it didn't look quite right on me (not sure why -- my short waist, perhaps?). My sister fit into it nicely, though, and these colors are more her style, so I'm letting her have this one. I'm not sure whether or not I'll be tweaking it to make another one for myself, but it's still a neat pattern for its unique design and simplicity of construction :-)

Navy Corduroy Jumper

Here's another version of Simplicity 3673. I made my first version during last December/January, and this time I made one for my sister.





The Specifics:

Fabrics:
For the fashion fabric, she chose a navy blue pinwale corduroy, with a polyester lining for the bodice. We also substituted an invisible zipper for a regular one.

Alterations for Fit:
None, other than slight adjustments to the side seams in the skirt.

Construction:
For the most part, I made the jumper following the pattern directions, with a few small additions/changes. . .

The first change was to add interfacings to reinforce a few key areas of the garment. I hand basted 1-inch wide bias-cut strips of silk organza to the wrong side of the shoulder and armhole seam lines before sewing in the lining. For the zipper seam, I basted in a 1-inch wide strip of batiste, which was cut on-grain.

I also hand under-stitched the armhole and neckline seams with a pick-stitch. The instructions don't actually say to under-stitch this area, seeing as it's too narrow to reach by machine, so I did it by hand to prevent the lining from rolling outward.

The third change I made was to insert the lining in such a way as to cover the zipper seam and waist seam. In the pattern instructions, the main purpose of the lining seems to be for finishing the neckline and armholes. After that, it's supposed to be stitched into the zipper and waistline seams with the rest of the bodice. I decided to leave the lining free of the zipper seam and tack in place later (I actually did this by machine; see my other version for details), also slip-stitching it over the waist seam.



The waist seam was supposed to be pressed down (according to the directions), but pinwale corduroy is relatively lightweight, so I "cheated" and pressed it up so I could hide it in the lining. The rest of the seams are simply overcast with a zigzag stitch.

Well, that's about it. It was a fairly simple and enjoyable project, and the corduroy seems to be a great choice for fall!

I'm sorry I haven't been posting very often (I say this too much!). I sew a lot more often than I get around to writing about, so I'm woefully backlogged with projects to post :-( I'll have to see if I can get some more pictures up!

Navy Linen Dress

Last summer I purchased a length of "hanky" linen with the intention of making a coat-dress from a vintage 60's pattern, but after a while, I changed my plans and decided to save the linen for another project. This spring I felt the urge to finally make something with it, and since I wasn't really sure that Vogue 7693 (see link above) was suited to me, I started searching for patterns with that called for a lightweight fabric in a length of 2 5/8 of a yard. After gathering pictures from several different patterns, I decided to use this one:


Butterick 6582

After fitting the muslin, working on the lining pieces, and planning the construction, the dress went together pretty quickly. Here are the results:




A Few Details. . .



The pattern doesn't include a lining , but I added one because my fabric is nearly sheer. Making the pattern for the lining wasn't difficult; all I did for the bodice pieces was combine the bodice facing pieces with the main bodice panels.

I started by tracing the front facing piece onto a blank piece of paper. I then placed the front bodice piece over it, matching the seamlines at the armholes. I pinned the sides and bottom of the pattern piece flat (this caused the fullness in the upper part of the pattern to buckle inward, which you can see below).



I then traced around the side and bottom edges of the pattern, and it ended up looking like this:



I transfered the darts after unpinning the pattern, then matching the side and bottom edges and tracing the dart legs.
One thing I should note, however, is that drafting the lining piece this way caused the lining to be slightly shorter than the bodice piece. After making the dress, I found that the front of the lining waistline seam was about 1/2" higher than the waistline of the actual dress (it ended up being alright, though, because it did not significantly alter the fit). So when making the lining piece, I would recommend adding about 1/2" to the middle of the bottom edge and gradually blending into the side seams ;)

I didn't even need to make a back lining piece; all I had to do was use the back bodice piece.

To avoid adding bulk at the waist of the dress, I altered the pieces for the skirt lining to be an A-line style. I simply started with the original skirt pattern, making the length of the waistline seam the same length as the bodice waistline seam (with the darts folded in, as they would be when sewn).


The hem was a bit uneven once it was sewn in, but I was able to use a hem marker to make it parallel to the floor.

Even though I wasn't using the facing pieces for this pattern, I still wanted to interface the neckline and armholes to support the edges. To do this, I cut silk organza from the facing patterns hand-basted them to the wrong side of the lining panels. I finished the free-hanging edges with a zigzag stitch and catch-stitched them to the linings (you can barely even see this in the picture).



Those strips on the outer edges are strips of batiste that are cut on the grain. I had originally applied them fearing that the neckline edges on the bias would stretch too much. After sewing the neckline seam, though, I found that it would be better to allow for a little "give," in the front, so I ended up removing the strip on the largest bodice piece and re-stitching the seam ;)

To keep my bra straps from peeking out from under the narrow shoulders of the garment, I also added "lingerie straps" to the shoulder seams on the inside. I made them by using 1/4-inch wide twill tape, miniature snaps, and following Claire B. Shaeffer's instructions from The Complete Book of Sewing Short Cuts.



This pattern actually wasn't very hard to make and I'm pleased with the results, so I'm glad that I saved my fabric for a suitable project! I've written a review about this pattern for PatternReview.com, so if you're interested in reading more about this project, click here. As always, if anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask :)

Striped Shirtdress

Here is a recently completed "unfinished object" (UFO) that I started sewing over a year ago. I had originally intended to wear it myself, but when it did not fit me very well, I hung it in the closet, where it stayed until my sister asked me about it months later. "Are you ever going to wear that striped dress?" she said. Rolling my eyes, I replied, "Are you kidding?"(meaning, of coarse, that the answer was "No"). "Well, good!" she said. "Maybe I can wear it!" I told her that she could try it on and was surprised to find that it fit her perfectly!




For this dress, I used McCall's 4769.The fabric is a navy blue and white seersucker with an 1/8" stripe. I turned the skirt panels on the bias to create a chevron pattern, eliminating the button placket on the skirt and sewing a center front seam there instead. This caused me to change the order of construction by completing the entire bodice first, save for the left side seam and the buttons/buttonholes. In order to compensate for the shortened placket opening, I inserted an invisible zipper in the left side seam:

I also cut the button placket on the bias, as well. I didn't use the pattern's sash piece; my sister cut one out using her waist measurement, and I helped her sew it together. The fabric's stripes aren't particularly clear in the first two photos, but the details are clearer in the picture below, which I took before the dress was completed.





All that was required to finish this dress was making the buttonholes, sewing on the buttons, and finishing the hem. Now that it's actually done, I'm happy with how this pattern turned out, and I'm glad that my sister can wear it so that the project wasn't a "waste," after all!