Last night I was able to start officially start my tailoring project (that is, if cutting out the fabric doesn't count), and the first step was to assemble the front and back pieces (i.e., sew the side front panels to the center front panels, and sew the center back seam, ect.). So far, so good. I still need to sew the side back pieces to the main panel of the back.
Claire Shaeffer warns in her fabric books that bouclé can easily be damaged by improper pressing, so I test pressed the fabric, and found that the following method seems to be the most suitable for my material:
1) Cover a dressmaker's/tailor's ham with a thick terry towel (this will help to retain the texture of the fabric and keep it from becoming matted flat).
2) Place the item that is to be pressed over the towel.
3) Cover the bouclé with a self-fabric press cloth, and press the fabric as needed. If you're pressing open a seam, press the seam flat as it was when it was sewn, then finger-press the seam open. (Hint: Because my fabric's fibers are 50% acrylic, I used an extra press cloth of cotton muslin over the self-fabric press cloth to prevent the fabric from being scorched. This was very handy while I was finger pressing, because I could rotate the muslin immediately after I removed the iron from the material's surface, so that I would not have to touch hot fabric).
4) Immediately after pressing a section of the fabric (and without removing the fabric from the pressing surface), remove the press cloth(es) and hover the iron close to the material's surface and steam it generously (this will help restore the texture of the fabric). Do not move the fabric until it is cool and dry.
These instructions are basically what I learned from Claire Shaeffer's fabric books. If you'd like to try this, please do remember that my fabric is 50% Wool and 50% Acrylic, and these pressing directions are suited to my fabric, so I'd recommend test-pressing your fabric before trying this method on an actual project :)
This is one of the reasons that I only completed several seams last night -- I spent more time in front of the ironing board than I spent at the sewing machine!
-Rebekah
Wednesday, August 30, 2006
Sunday, August 27, 2006
Playing Tailor :)
I'm finally about to start my first tailoring job! I'm so exited that I can barely wait -- the only thing holding me back are the rest of the supplies that I have to buy. I've purchased a two yard length of bouclé fabric from Fashion Fabrics Club -- here's a picture:
You can find specific information on the fabric here. I'm using McCall's 5058 for the pattern, but I'm following the basic tailoring instructions from the Reader's Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing, and following also the the advice on tailoring written by Claire B. Shaeffer in her book, Couture Sewing Techniques. I've started practicing making bound buttonholes, which I've never done before. It's pretty simple once you "get the hang of it," though doing bound buttonholes with bouclé fabric, as I've discovered, can be a challenge! The fabric is rather thick, does not readily hold a crease, and frays excessively, so I'm making the sort of bound buttonhole with cording inserted in the welts. After practicing on several pieces of scrap fabric I've finally become used to the way it's supposed work, and I would post a picture of one of my little test buttonholes, but the camera is currently unavailable :( Oh, well. I'll keep posting!
You can find specific information on the fabric here. I'm using McCall's 5058 for the pattern, but I'm following the basic tailoring instructions from the Reader's Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing, and following also the the advice on tailoring written by Claire B. Shaeffer in her book, Couture Sewing Techniques. I've started practicing making bound buttonholes, which I've never done before. It's pretty simple once you "get the hang of it," though doing bound buttonholes with bouclé fabric, as I've discovered, can be a challenge! The fabric is rather thick, does not readily hold a crease, and frays excessively, so I'm making the sort of bound buttonhole with cording inserted in the welts. After practicing on several pieces of scrap fabric I've finally become used to the way it's supposed work, and I would post a picture of one of my little test buttonholes, but the camera is currently unavailable :( Oh, well. I'll keep posting!
Wednesday, August 16, 2006
Formal Gown Pictures
I've finally taken a few photos of two formal gowns I made this past spring. They were originally made for me and my sister to wear to a formal event, but, however, they were not finished before the deadline so the have remained unworn unto this point. Both dresses were made with the same pattern, featuring princess seams that spread into a full gored skirt with black tulle peaking out below the hemline. The dresses are further embellished with a wide black ribbon worn about the waist and pinned in place with a large flower.
When my sister and I started planning how we wanted our dresses to look, we browsed various websites offering formal gowns. Our inspiration for the final product originally came from a pretty pink dress made by A Formal Choice and a similar dress from Beautifully Modest. I was unable to find a pattern for the exact design specifications that I was looking for, so I drafted the bodice of view "F" from Butterick 4443 into the strapless panels of McCall's 5001, and followed the pattern instructions from the Butterick pattern until the dress was lined, at which point turned to the directions written for the McCall's pattern for advice on attaching the tulle to the lining. My sister and I wanted the necklines to be square, so I reshaped the neckline of the dress while testing the re-drafted pattern on an inexpensive fabric.
I found Claire Shaeffer's book, Sew Any Fabric, very helpful as I was learning how to handle the fabric that I planned to use. I was a bit confused as to how I was going to ease the sleeve cap into the armholes of the dresses, because I was using taffeta to make one of them, and many people advise removing ease from the sleeve pattern when making a taffeta sleeve, because this fabric is said to be difficult to ease. I posted at the forum of Sensibility.com with my concerns, and the ladies there were very generous with their advice -- the discussion can be found here (you may need to be a registered member and login before you are able to view this thread). After taking the advice of Elizabeth Stewart Clark, the sleeves went into the gowns very easily and I'm quite satisfied with the results :) You can also find another thread here that I started at the same forum when having trouble with the hem of the satin dress. I eventually used an artificial horsehair braid, as was suggested. Thank you so much to the ladies of the S&S forum -- you ladies are awsome!
With all of the above being said, it is now time to show the pictures! Click on any one of them for a larger photo :)
The pink gown was made from a taffeta fabric which I purchased from JoAnn's (fabric store). It was a rather thick taffeta with a very iridescent sheen on the right side. I am not a very big fan of extremely shiny dresses (at least not for myself, anyway), so I used the wrong side of the fabric and found that I really liked it. The dress was hand-hemmed after tiny darts were sewn into the hem allowance to control the fullness that came from the gores. The dress does appear shine a little, but this comes from the flash of the camera.
The red gown was made from a somewhat dull-finished satin from the "Casa Collection" at JoAnn's. I believe that the fabric is 100% polyester, and it's very forgiving -- I fell in love with it! You can see the sleeve detail by referring to the last picture.
Both dresses came directly from the closet and could use a little pressing (the hem of the red one especially --it's a little bit smooshed!), so please excuse their condition. Please excuse also the back picture of the red dress, as it seems a slight bit blurry. The ribbon and flower have yet to be permanently attached -- they are only just pinned in place for the photos :)
Hopefully these dresses will come out of the closet for wearing someday -- it is rather nice knowing that they are there, though -- just in case we ever need them!
-Rebekah
When my sister and I started planning how we wanted our dresses to look, we browsed various websites offering formal gowns. Our inspiration for the final product originally came from a pretty pink dress made by A Formal Choice and a similar dress from Beautifully Modest. I was unable to find a pattern for the exact design specifications that I was looking for, so I drafted the bodice of view "F" from Butterick 4443 into the strapless panels of McCall's 5001, and followed the pattern instructions from the Butterick pattern until the dress was lined, at which point turned to the directions written for the McCall's pattern for advice on attaching the tulle to the lining. My sister and I wanted the necklines to be square, so I reshaped the neckline of the dress while testing the re-drafted pattern on an inexpensive fabric.
I found Claire Shaeffer's book, Sew Any Fabric, very helpful as I was learning how to handle the fabric that I planned to use. I was a bit confused as to how I was going to ease the sleeve cap into the armholes of the dresses, because I was using taffeta to make one of them, and many people advise removing ease from the sleeve pattern when making a taffeta sleeve, because this fabric is said to be difficult to ease. I posted at the forum of Sensibility.com with my concerns, and the ladies there were very generous with their advice -- the discussion can be found here (you may need to be a registered member and login before you are able to view this thread). After taking the advice of Elizabeth Stewart Clark, the sleeves went into the gowns very easily and I'm quite satisfied with the results :) You can also find another thread here that I started at the same forum when having trouble with the hem of the satin dress. I eventually used an artificial horsehair braid, as was suggested. Thank you so much to the ladies of the S&S forum -- you ladies are awsome!
With all of the above being said, it is now time to show the pictures! Click on any one of them for a larger photo :)
The pink gown was made from a taffeta fabric which I purchased from JoAnn's (fabric store). It was a rather thick taffeta with a very iridescent sheen on the right side. I am not a very big fan of extremely shiny dresses (at least not for myself, anyway), so I used the wrong side of the fabric and found that I really liked it. The dress was hand-hemmed after tiny darts were sewn into the hem allowance to control the fullness that came from the gores. The dress does appear shine a little, but this comes from the flash of the camera.
The red gown was made from a somewhat dull-finished satin from the "Casa Collection" at JoAnn's. I believe that the fabric is 100% polyester, and it's very forgiving -- I fell in love with it! You can see the sleeve detail by referring to the last picture.
Both dresses came directly from the closet and could use a little pressing (the hem of the red one especially --it's a little bit smooshed!), so please excuse their condition. Please excuse also the back picture of the red dress, as it seems a slight bit blurry. The ribbon and flower have yet to be permanently attached -- they are only just pinned in place for the photos :)
Hopefully these dresses will come out of the closet for wearing someday -- it is rather nice knowing that they are there, though -- just in case we ever need them!
-Rebekah
Friday, August 11, 2006
Making a few changes. . .
I've recently decided to make a few changes to this blog, so I've "pruned" some of the unnecessary posts and plan to try making this a more interesting site -- probably one that would include more pictures of my projects and how they were made, rather than using this site as a place to simply say that I'm doing them. Nothing big may happen immediately, but I do plan to gradually make this place a more interesting site to browse :)
Sunday, July 30, 2006
Updated Again!
Yup. I've updated the corset diary again. Just click here to see it.
I've also been working on valances for the family room windows using Simplicity 4997. I'm not using the pattern for its simplicity (pardon the pun!)-- I'm using it because it's cute! The pattern is very easy, and turns out really nice. I'm making up view "A" with a plaid decorator fabric and a contrasting fabric for the back panel -- I've already finished two valances save for the buttons.
Well, I've got to go now -- even if I didn't, I don't really have much else to say!
-Rebekah
I've also been working on valances for the family room windows using Simplicity 4997. I'm not using the pattern for its simplicity (pardon the pun!)-- I'm using it because it's cute! The pattern is very easy, and turns out really nice. I'm making up view "A" with a plaid decorator fabric and a contrasting fabric for the back panel -- I've already finished two valances save for the buttons.
Well, I've got to go now -- even if I didn't, I don't really have much else to say!
-Rebekah
Sunday, July 23, 2006
New Diary Updated!
Just posting here to say that I've updated the regency corset diary, and you can read all about the project if you simply click here. I've just published a very long post that was written by me last night. I'll try to post here every time I update it ( just as I'm doing now). I have more to write about the project, so I need to post again later. Anyhow, if you'd like to see how the corset is coming along, I have a detailed account to for you to read!
Saturday, July 22, 2006
I'm still here ;)
I just haven't updated my blog for some time (probably no surprise, though!). I've been working on the corset that I started making using the Late 1820's Stays pattern from Nora Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines! I'm still in the process of adjusting the fit, so I've also been planning how I'm going to construct the corset and designing an embroidery/quilting pattern for it. I've purchased the sateen that I'm going to make it with, along with a few spools of silk sewing thread. My hand stitching still needs a little practice, too, but before I post everything about the project here, I think it would be a great deal more simple to say that I've opened a separate blog so that this project can have its own diary -- click here to see it. This way, all the information on the stays will all be organized into one place. Leave a comment there for me, if you have any questions or thoughts on the subject :)
Well that's all for now -- I hope to post more on the Diary of a Regency Corset soon!
Well that's all for now -- I hope to post more on the Diary of a Regency Corset soon!
Wednesday, April 05, 2006
Victorian Corset Pictures
I finally found the time to get some photos of my Victorian corset uploaded!
To make this corset, I used the Laughing Moon Ladies' Victorian Underwear pattern, "china twill" (100% cotton) for the outmost layer, and pillow ticking (100% cotton) for the lining. I purchased all of the special corset making supplies (boning, cotton twill tape, lacing, ect.) from Farthingales and Corsetmaking.com. I purchased the grommets and grommet setting kit from the Laughing Moon Mercantile (click on first link).
The pattern was pretty simple to follow, but the fitting steps can be rather involved. It is worth it, however, to go through the process of fitting the corset with a cheap material before constructing the final corset (because of the close fit). I would definately recommend this pattern to someone who would like to make her first corset. It explains the construction methods very well, and aside from the fitting stage, it only requires basic sewing techniques and a few special materials :)
-Rebekah
Note: The chemise pictured in the photos was made using a pattern that I drafted while following the free instructions at Elizabeth Stewart Clark's website. The instructions were easy to follow, and the pattern probably didn't take more than half hour to draft. I am pleased with the way it turned out, other than the neckline being a little narrower than I would have preferred ( which was caused by a mistake that I made while taking measurements).
To make this corset, I used the Laughing Moon Ladies' Victorian Underwear pattern, "china twill" (100% cotton) for the outmost layer, and pillow ticking (100% cotton) for the lining. I purchased all of the special corset making supplies (boning, cotton twill tape, lacing, ect.) from Farthingales and Corsetmaking.com. I purchased the grommets and grommet setting kit from the Laughing Moon Mercantile (click on first link).
The pattern was pretty simple to follow, but the fitting steps can be rather involved. It is worth it, however, to go through the process of fitting the corset with a cheap material before constructing the final corset (because of the close fit). I would definately recommend this pattern to someone who would like to make her first corset. It explains the construction methods very well, and aside from the fitting stage, it only requires basic sewing techniques and a few special materials :)
-Rebekah
Note: The chemise pictured in the photos was made using a pattern that I drafted while following the free instructions at Elizabeth Stewart Clark's website. The instructions were easy to follow, and the pattern probably didn't take more than half hour to draft. I am pleased with the way it turned out, other than the neckline being a little narrower than I would have preferred ( which was caused by a mistake that I made while taking measurements).
Sunday, April 02, 2006
M4930 - Dress Pictures
Here are a few pictures of the brown dress that I made using McCall's 4930:
I made a few alterations, most of which pertained to fitting issues. If you look at the pattern photo you can see that I omitted the armhole extentions. I did this because they simply didn't flatter my figure, and I thought that the jacket would probably fit over the dress better if they were not there.
The fitting alterations made are as follows:
- Lowering the neckline, for comfort.
- Raising the bustline shaping (in the pattern) by two inches.
- Reducing the waistline.
- Adding more room at hipline.
- Adding an inch or two to the hemline
Overall I'd say that most of the fitting problems probably came from my figure -- not the pattern. These fitting issues were time consuming to correct, but after they were resolved (using a muslin fabric to test the pattern) the dress went together very quickly, and the pattern instructions were easy to follow.
-Rebekah
Just a little note:
Sorry that the photos aren't too great :( They're rather blurry, and they don't do the fabric justice (it's very nice fabric, and it's darker than the photos suggest). Oh, well. They do reveal a rough idea of the results that can be achieved with this pattern, at least.
I made a few alterations, most of which pertained to fitting issues. If you look at the pattern photo you can see that I omitted the armhole extentions. I did this because they simply didn't flatter my figure, and I thought that the jacket would probably fit over the dress better if they were not there.
The fitting alterations made are as follows:
- Lowering the neckline, for comfort.
- Raising the bustline shaping (in the pattern) by two inches.
- Reducing the waistline.
- Adding more room at hipline.
- Adding an inch or two to the hemline
Overall I'd say that most of the fitting problems probably came from my figure -- not the pattern. These fitting issues were time consuming to correct, but after they were resolved (using a muslin fabric to test the pattern) the dress went together very quickly, and the pattern instructions were easy to follow.
-Rebekah
Just a little note:
Sorry that the photos aren't too great :( They're rather blurry, and they don't do the fabric justice (it's very nice fabric, and it's darker than the photos suggest). Oh, well. They do reveal a rough idea of the results that can be achieved with this pattern, at least.
Saturday, April 01, 2006
Yay! Vintage pattern!
Just had to show you what came in the mail today. . .
It's a vintage pattern that I purchased at Grandma's House! to make a 1940s style dress (someday when I'm not so busy, that is!). After watching the Hallmark movie "The Magic of Ordinary Days," I really wanted to make a dress like the one that Livy wore in the scene in which she cooks an omelet for Ray (the omelet with too many hot peppers in it :P). Here's a picture (Livy is standing on the left):
It's not really the best shot of the front of the dress, but that's all I could find at the moment. The dress features a hem that falls just below the knee, buttoned flaps that rest just below the shoulders, a skirt that has an inverted box pleat at the center front and center back, and bishop sleeves.
When I started looking for a pattern to make this dress, I figured that I would probably have to draft the buttoned flaps on my own, if I could only find pattern who's style is similar to the outfit Livy wears. But when I looked at Sense and Sensibility's vintage images, I was surprised to see a pattern that matched the dress perfectly, except for the buckle on the belt of the pattern (Livy's dress doesn't have a buckle). The pattern is so similar to the dress that it makes me wonder if the filmmakers might have used it to help create a wardrobe for one of their main characters!!!
It's a vintage pattern that I purchased at Grandma's House! to make a 1940s style dress (someday when I'm not so busy, that is!). After watching the Hallmark movie "The Magic of Ordinary Days," I really wanted to make a dress like the one that Livy wore in the scene in which she cooks an omelet for Ray (the omelet with too many hot peppers in it :P). Here's a picture (Livy is standing on the left):
It's not really the best shot of the front of the dress, but that's all I could find at the moment. The dress features a hem that falls just below the knee, buttoned flaps that rest just below the shoulders, a skirt that has an inverted box pleat at the center front and center back, and bishop sleeves.
When I started looking for a pattern to make this dress, I figured that I would probably have to draft the buttoned flaps on my own, if I could only find pattern who's style is similar to the outfit Livy wears. But when I looked at Sense and Sensibility's vintage images, I was surprised to see a pattern that matched the dress perfectly, except for the buckle on the belt of the pattern (Livy's dress doesn't have a buckle). The pattern is so similar to the dress that it makes me wonder if the filmmakers might have used it to help create a wardrobe for one of their main characters!!!
Monday, September 12, 2005
Updates...
Just thought I'd update this since it's been a while since I've last posted.
My corset has gone together quite well, though to be honest it's been a while since I last worked on it. I've sewn in all the boning channels and now all I have to do is slip in the boning and bind it shut, but I have not purchased my spiral steel bones yet so the project is stalled until I do. It seems to fit quite well and all the attention that goes into the fitting issues really does pay off in the end! It may seem like a lot of extra work but I'm be glad I did it!
Even though I haven't worked on the corset much I have worked on a few "between" projects, and I finished a jacket that was started a long time ago but sat around half finished for nearly a year.
Have recently been able to get my hands on a copy Corsets and Crinolines by Nora Waugh, and I am very interested in making up the Late 1820s stays pattern. I wish I could start on it right away but I haven't even finished my Victorian corset yet and I'll probably be too busy for the rest of the year and it may not be until early next year until I can start :( *sigh* I really do hope that I can start on it sooner.
I have much to do so I'd best be off.
~Rebekah~
My corset has gone together quite well, though to be honest it's been a while since I last worked on it. I've sewn in all the boning channels and now all I have to do is slip in the boning and bind it shut, but I have not purchased my spiral steel bones yet so the project is stalled until I do. It seems to fit quite well and all the attention that goes into the fitting issues really does pay off in the end! It may seem like a lot of extra work but I'm be glad I did it!
Even though I haven't worked on the corset much I have worked on a few "between" projects, and I finished a jacket that was started a long time ago but sat around half finished for nearly a year.
Have recently been able to get my hands on a copy Corsets and Crinolines by Nora Waugh, and I am very interested in making up the Late 1820s stays pattern. I wish I could start on it right away but I haven't even finished my Victorian corset yet and I'll probably be too busy for the rest of the year and it may not be until early next year until I can start :( *sigh* I really do hope that I can start on it sooner.
I have much to do so I'd best be off.
~Rebekah~
Friday, August 26, 2005
First Post!!!
I have finally taken the time to start a diary for my historical sewing projects! As you can see it really is not much yet as this is my first posting here, but in the future you can be updated on my projects by visiting this blog.
My current project is a corset from the Victorian era and I hope to have it completed soon. However, it may take a little time until it is done, so please don't hold your breath. But when it is done you can expect to see pictures of it along with the details about it! I also hope to be able to post pictures and details of my 1910s Tea Gown, which I finished last spring.
Anyhow, I hope you enjoy that which you shall see here in the future!
Until next time,
~Rebekah~
My current project is a corset from the Victorian era and I hope to have it completed soon. However, it may take a little time until it is done, so please don't hold your breath. But when it is done you can expect to see pictures of it along with the details about it! I also hope to be able to post pictures and details of my 1910s Tea Gown, which I finished last spring.
Anyhow, I hope you enjoy that which you shall see here in the future!
Until next time,
~Rebekah~
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