Well, it's been nearly a month since my last post, and I've been inching along between Thanksgiving and other happenings, but my coat project is still underway. I took a few pictures along the way which I 'll be sharing over the next few days.
After finally finishing the pattern details mentioned in my last post, I cut out the fashion fabric, lining material, interlining layer and interfacings.
Since I'm interlining the coat with cotton flannel for extra warmth, I started out by backing each lining panel with its matching flannel piece. I did this by spreading the pieces flat and basting them together by hand to prevent the layers from shifting, as the lining material is very slippery.
At this point I also prepared the interfacing for the under collar. I thought I'd share a picture of this because it's such an unusual shape; not only does this design have a shawl collar, but it also features an oversized lapel. All of this is combined in one giant, bone-shaped panel. It's cut on the bias so that it will acommodate the contours of the neck and shoulders. The center back seam is lapped here to minimize bulk.
When I marked the collar/lapel roll line on the test garment, I also noted where the collar fell along the shoulder seam to help me plan the pad-stitching (the photo above shows the penciled "map" where my pad-stitches will be). The small section centered at the bottom is basically the collar stand, and everything above it falls on the opposite side of the roll line. Since the rows of stitching don't need to be spaced as closely at the "fall" of the collar (top center), I drew them a little wider in this area. In contrast, the spacing of the lines in the upper corners is much closer, as they will become the points of the lapels and will need a bit of extra stitching to help curl them toward the jacket body.
No comments:
Post a Comment