Herringbone Coat: Two-Piece Sleeves

As I mentioned when introducing project, I decided to substitute a two-piece sleeve from another coat pattern for the one-piece sleeve in the pattern for this coat. My reason for doing this is simply that two-piece sleeves can often provide a nice fit and range of motion because they're of the way they're drafted, with ease at elbow joint and a slightly curved arm, so that the sleeve hem will fall toward the front of the body (similar shaping is also achieved in a single-piece sleeve with an elbow dart). Even when the arm hangs at the side of the body, it's still slightly bent, so the shaping of the sleeve accommodates this, as well as allowing the arm to bend easily.

The pattern consists of an upper panel and and undersleeve panel. I borrowed both the sleeve and it's armhole from Simplicity 4403 (now out of print) and aligned the armhole with the shoulder point and side seams of the Butterick bodice before cutting out my muslin.

 

The simplicity pattern instructions use basting stitches to ease in the elbow shaping of the sleeve, but I found that it worked well to ease in the fullness with extra pins and place the side of the sleeve that needed to be eased toward the feed dogs of the machine when stitching, using the movement of the feed dogs to pull in the extra fabric.

 

 After completing the first seam of the upper and under sleeve, I pressed the curved area over a tailor's ham so that the seam would be smooth. For the second seam, I used a seam roll.

This picture of the back of the sleeve shows how it's curved toward the front of the body, even though the coat is just on my dressform and the sleeve is hanging "straight."

Herringbone Coat: Upper Collar and Front Facing

At the time of my last post, I was working on the seams of the lower coat, which included in-seam pockets. The lower center front panels coat also needed to be interfaced, but since they didn't need as much shaping as bodice, I decided to interface these panels with muslin rather than hair canvas. As the pictures show, my progress has jumped ahead quite a bit; the skirt portion of the coat has been seamed to the bodice, and the upper collar and facing have been attached, too.

Since the wool that I used for this coat is the same weight as recommended by the patten, I didn't need to adjust the under collar for the "turn-of-cloth," as I found it had already been accounted for.

Though none of these photos show it, I modified the back lining pattern to include a back neck facing. This way, the facing from the front continues around to the back of the coat (this was not absolutely necessary; it was simply a detail I preferred).  

Once the upper collar and facing were seamed to the coat, I followed the tailoring instructions in the RD Complete Guide to Sewing to trim, grade, clip and press the seam of the collar and center front. They're very detailed and I always find them helpful when dealing with is step in my jackets or coats. After this, I rolled the seam toward the under collar and used tailor-basting (the diagonal white stitches in the photo) to hold it in place for hand-understitching and more steaming.

With the facing covering the inside of the coat front, openings needed to be made in order to access the wrong side of the bound buttonholes. Usually this can be done by simply cutting a slit the length of the buttonhole, turning under the raw edge, and slip-stitching it to the back of the buttonhole, but since my fabric tends to fray, I opted for a different technique called the "windowpane" method. This involves using a patch of facing to make a little window where the front facing meets the buttonhole.

 

 I used silk organza for the facing patches because it's strong and presses crisp at the edges. 

On the right side of the facing, it yields a neat little window that will be slip-stitched in place around the back of the bound buttonhole.

Herringbone Coat: In -Seam Pockets

Since the construction has come to the point where I can add the lower part of the coat, the panels of the "skirt" portion need to be assembled. For the most part this is pretty simple, since most of the seams are straight, but I thought I'd share a picture showing a few details of the in-seam pockets.  

First of all, each pocket panel is backed with a layer of cotton batiste. Since the lining fabric is somewhat thin, the batiste is there to take some of the strain of wear and lengthen the life of the pocket.

Furthermore, the pocket opening has been reinforced with a strip of silk organza to prevent it from stretching out of shape (this is on the other side of the pocket, so it's not visible above). I also added small squares of organza to the areas of the seam where the back seam allowances must be clipped.

Finally, after the pocket was finished, I cut a strip of cotton batiste on the lengthwise grain and used it to make a "stay" that connects the top of the pocket to the waist seam at the side-front skirt panel. This will uphold the pocket and pull it toward the front of the coat, where it belongs. Otherwise, it droops to a lump at the side seam . . . not flattering!  

Herringbone Coat: Padstitching the Collar/Lapels

Now that the stand of the collar is all filled in with padstitching, the "fall" of the collar, or the area that drapes down from the roll line at the back of the neck, can be padstitched as well. This design is a little unusual because the lapels are included as an extension of the collar. I had to do a bit of guesswork and try to adapt the instructions from my tailoring books as best I could, since this collar differs so much from all the examples I could find.

Before padstitching the entire collar, I went ahead and attached it to the coat. This is probably a bit unconventional, but I did it because I wanted to tape the roll line before padstitching the lapels, and the roll line extends from the collar into the front jacket piece. Some directions that I've seen show padstitching before taping, but since I wanted to ease the lapel to the length of tape, I thought taping the roll line first might be a better route for me (the second photo shows where the roll line is taped, from the shoulder seam to the break point).

The rows of padstitching run parallel to the roll line. In each corner of the lapels, shorter stitches are taken while the point is rolled tightly, so that the finished lapels will curl toward the jacket body.

After the padstitching was complete, I trimmed away the seam allowances and taped the edges to prevent them from stretching out of shape. I wasn't able to get the recommended plain-weave tape for this project but used twill tape instead. I used a fell stitch to secure it in place and found that it worked better than catch-stitching on the twill weave.  

The white towel under the lapel on the right has been
 dampened to help set the shape as the roll line is steamed.

Having the collar on the jacket body made it a little awkward to steam the lapels, but Erika of Swingin' It In Vintage wrote a post about tailoring a cut-on shawl collar that I found very helpful. My collar is seamed to the jacket rather than being cut-on, but I followed the same idea of using towels to protect the body of the jacket from excess steam, while steaming one lapel at a time (thank you so much for sharing this, Erika!). 

Now it needs the upper collar and the lower coat portion to be attached!

Herringbone Coat: Interfacing the Upper Coat

After completing the bound buttonholes, the next step is to assemble the bodice panels and start interfacing the main pieces of the coat. Here's a photo of the bodice front:

For the most part, I've been using the instructions from Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket , along with the tailoring section from the Reader's Digest (RD) sewing guide, to make patterns for and apply the hair canvas interfacing. To draft the bust dart that comes out from the armhole, however, I used the information from Marji's posts on the The Great Coat Sew Along, which can be found here and here (there is just a wealth of helpful information on this site! Thank you, Marji, for sharing this technique!).

The picture above shows the "shield" piece that supports the area between the shoulder and bust to help prevent it from drooping toward the body. After completing the bust dart and basting the shield in place, I aligned the markings on the canvas with the details of the bodice front and tailor-basted it in place.

 I don't have any pictures of the bodice back right now, but also I followed the instructions in the Tailoring book for interfacing the back with a muslin stay and taping the shoulder seams when attaching it to the bodice front.

Before adding the collar, I trimmed away the seam allowance of the interfacing at the neck edge and catchstitched the canvas in place. The interfacing seam allowances on the neck edges of both jacket and collar are not trimmed away in the Tailoring book, but in the RD sewing book they are. I needed to reduce the bulk somewhere to avoid having two layers of hair canvas going into this seam, so I decided to trim it on the bodice, but include it on the collar.

Now for padstitching the collar! It's visible in the picture where it's starting to "roll" now that I've filled in the stand.  

Herringbone Coat: Bound Buttonholes

Before assembling the main panels of the coat bodice, I made bound buttonholes on the center front piece of the coat. I put this step first because applying this type of buttonhole after the hair canvas is in place can create extra bulk. Plus, it's even easier to do this while working with single panel, rather than a whole bodice front. 

After making a few samples on my scrap material, I reinforced the center front buttonhole area with a lightweight, fusible interfacing. To form the buttonholes, I followed the steps for the "one-piece folded method" in the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing. I've used this same technique for most of my previous jacket projects and have found that it works quite well. Now that the buttonholes are complete, they'll remain basted closed until the coat is finished, to protect them during construction.

Herringbone Coat: Preparations

Well, it's been nearly a month since my last post, and I've been inching along between Thanksgiving and other happenings, but my coat project is still underway. I took a few pictures along the way which I 'll be sharing over the next few days.

 After finally finishing the pattern details mentioned in my last post, I cut out the fashion fabric, lining material, interlining layer and interfacings.

 Since I'm interlining the coat with cotton flannel for extra warmth, I started out by backing each lining panel with its matching flannel piece. I did this by spreading the pieces flat and basting them together by hand to prevent the layers from shifting, as the lining material is very slippery.

At this point I also prepared the interfacing for the under collar. I thought I'd share a picture of this because it's such an unusual shape; not only does this design have a shawl collar, but it also features an oversized lapel. All of this is combined in one giant, bone-shaped panel. It's cut on the bias so that it will acommodate the contours of the neck and shoulders. The center back seam is lapped here to minimize bulk.

When I marked the collar/lapel roll line on the test garment, I also noted where the collar fell along the shoulder seam to help me plan the pad-stitching (the photo above shows the penciled "map" where my pad-stitches will be). The small section centered at the bottom is basically the collar stand, and everything above it falls on the opposite side of the roll line. Since the rows of stitching don't need to be spaced as closely at the "fall" of the collar (top center), I drew them a little wider in this area. In contrast, the spacing of the lines in the upper corners is much closer, as they will become the points of the lapels and will need a bit of extra stitching to help curl them toward the jacket body.  

Herringbone Coat: the Shoulder Pads

When purchasing some of the materials my coat, I found a pair of "needle punch" shoulder pads. They are made from graduated layers of soft batting, sandwiched between two layers of felt. The pads have been needle-punched from the top, to send small fibers of each layer into the layer below, helping to hold all of the layers together. They're made especially for tailoring and are very flexible, so I know they'll work much better than some of the foam pads that I've used in the past.

 The only problem with them was the thickness. They were sold unpackaged and I was told that they were 1/2" thick, which is what my pattern called for. They did look a bit thicker than 1/2," but I couldn't find any that were thinner, so I went ahead and purchased them. When I checked the measurement at home, they were at least 3/4"! As nice as they were, using a thicker pad can change the fit of the jacket, and for a while I wasn't sure if I would use them. After a bit of experimenting, however, I found that these pads can be altered.

Here's a top view of the unaltered pad. The felt layer is perforated where it's been punched.

Side view of the batting. Too thick!

To alter it, I carefully pried the top layer of felt loose from the pad and separated a layer of batting, bringing it to the desired thickness.

            I slowly pulled out the separated section, leaving the bottom layer 1/2" thick.

To finish the pad, I pressed the top layer of felt against the filling and held it in a curved position while using diagonal basting stitches secure the layers together.

Now the pads are ready to be used for my coat! I'm still in the process of making some extra pattern pieces for the interfacings, but I will try to post soon and share some of the details about the muslin.

Herringbone Coat Project

I know it's been a long time since I've last updated. . . a very long time! My life over these past months has gotten rather busy, so I haven't been very prolific at blogging, to say the least! However, I have still managed to do bits of sewing here and there, and I would still love to share it on my blog. Over the coarse of this year, my projects have branched out to custom sewing jobs and alterations for others, and I've even started teaching sewing classes over this summer. I've still been making a few pieces for myself, too, including a summer dress from Simplicity 2180 (I need to take some pictures!).

 Now that winter is fast approaching, I'm working on making a wool coat. The one I currently wear has been needing a replacement for some time, so I've decided that this is the year to try my hand at making a new one! I've made jackets before, but this is my first actual coat. I would like to write a little series of blog posts through the making of this project, as sharing it here might just help motivate me to finish it more quickly, and perhaps there might be others out there who are interested in coat making who could follow along ;)

 For my pattern, I've chosen Butterick's new Butterick 5658 and will be making view B, pictured below.

So far my plans are to follow the design of the coat fairly close to the pattern, although I've opted to borrow a two-piece sleeve (and corresponding armhole) from a simplicity coat pattern that I have. Two-piece sleeves often have shaping that allows a freer range of motion than one-piece sleeves. Besides this, I'll be changing the construction a bit, to include more tailored details, as well.

 I already have nearly all the materials I need to get started. This past September my sister and I went to American Sewing Expo in Novi, Michigan, where I found a lightweight wool herringbone in the vending area. Most of the other materials came from a specialty fabric store.

This picture shows the wool, along with matching buttons, cotton twill tape for stabilizing, hair canvas for interfacing, and Bemberg rayon for lining. The buttons and lining didn't react to well to the camera flash, but they are both dark brown and do match the wool ;) Hopefully I can get better pictures of these materials as my posts progress. I'm also going to add a cotton flannel interlining to the inside to provide a little extra warmth.

 Up to this point, I've fitted a muslin and marked the collar/lapel roll line on the pattern tissue. The next step is to prepare all the materials and create a few extra pattern pieces for the interfacing, facing, and lining. In the next post, I'll show a few pictures the shoulder pads I'll be using.

Vogue 8663 - Teal Knit Dress

These photos (much belated, I'm afraid) are of a knit dress that I made back in late January/ early February. I haven't posted them until now because I'd hoped to take better ones, but as it looks like I probably won't be taking more in the near future, I'll just let my dress form do the modeling for this post. ;-)



The pattern for this dress is Vogue 8663, from the Very Easy Vogue collection. For the fabric, I used a teal cotton/spandex knit from Spandex World, basically the same type of fabric that I used for the Jalie camisoles (the color is actually a bit darker than shown in these photos).



As simple as the dress is, I did make some changes to both the pattern's fit and construction process. First, I made my typical short waist adjustment to the pattern tissue, removing 3/4" at the lines provided. Next, when cutting the material, I used size 10 for the upper bodice and sleeves, but left a little extra room in the side seams but cutting between sizes 10 and 12 on the bodice and skirt panels. I also eliminated the center back zipper by cutting the back pieces on the fold and added several inches to the hem, as well.

When assembling the dress, my construction differed from the instruction sheet quite a bit. I wasn't so sure about finishing the neckline with woven bias tape as suggested, so I tried experimenting with a 1/4" with clear elastic. Unfortunately, it did not work well and left me with a distorted and over-stretched neck opening. In the end, I decided to pick out the elastic and salvage the dress by stitching a self-fabric band to the neckline.



Aside from the neckline, I also changed the order of the garment construction. Instead of completing the bodice side seams and setting the sleeves "in the round" before adding the skirt, I started with the shoulder seams and neckline treatment. Next, I hemmed the sleeves and set them into the armholes, leaving all the side seams open until after I added the skirt panels, so that I'd be able to stitch the sleeve seam, underarm, bodice side seam and skirt side seam in one continuous line. This sequence simplified the assembly by making it easier to maneuver the panels through my serger -- especially when setting the sleeves.

When all this was complete, I did go back and tweak the bodice fit by taking in the front of the side seams at the underarm, to eliminate a bit of bagginess. Afterward, all it needed was a bit of trimming at the hem or a more flattering length.



Standing alone it was a bit plain, so I tried accessorizing the dress with a belt as illustrated on the pattern envelope. . .



. . . which really made a difference!

All in a Day's Work

Just a few shots of a knit top I made for my sister this past Saturday. I had some extra material left over from my scarf-collar top, so I put it to good use by cutting out another top from Simplicity 4076, identical to my orange version here. Since I had found a solution to my sleeve troubles with the last shirt, it went much faster this time, and I was able complete it in an afternoon (granted, I had already cut out the pieces for it earlier in the week). It looks like this just might have become a "tried 'n' true" pattern for me. :-)

More "Sewing with Jalie"

Since I've been working with knits more, lately, I've been trying to fill in some of the "gaps" in my wardrobe that I wasn't bold enough to face with my own sewing in the past. I have been needing some camisoles to pair with my tops, and since I liked the Jalie pattern that I used to make my scarf-collar top, I figured it couldn't hurt to try using 2564. This pattern calls for fold-over elastic to bind the top edges and make the straps, with the option of stitching it in place with a zig-zag stitch or a cover-stitch. The serger that I have cannot do cover-stitiching (it's a four thread), so near the end of last year I purchased a separate machine devoted to this purpose. Most of the work on these tops has to do with attaching the elastic, so this project has given me quite an opportunity to use my "new" cover-stitch machine and learn how to adjust the tensions and troubleshoot some threading issues.

Below are two tops I've made so far. The first one I left unlined and basically used to test the fit. Afterward, I made a second casmisole with a few revisions.





When making my first camisole, I cut it to the size that matched my bust measurement, as directed, though I made the top edge about half and inch higher to suit my preferences. The fit was okay, but the elastic was a bit snug at the underarm and the neckline needed a little tweaking to achieve the shape I wanted.
To be truthful, I think these two issues may be tied to my being somewhat smallish compared to average upper body sizes, so on a fuller busted person, this top would likely be filled out so that the neckline and elastic would fit more like the pattern photo. In other words, I don't think these are flaws in the pattern or its chart for elastic lengths; these are my own fitting quirks.



For camisole #2, I tried the lining, which worked nicely. I also made the neckline a little higher and the slightest bit more rounded. The changes in the neckline shape really aren't apparent when modeled by my dress form, but it does make a difference in the way they fit me ;-)
I did also allow for a little more slack in the fit of the elastic by increasing the cutting length and made the garment an inch longer, as well. Here's a peek at the lining:



I used fold-over elastic to finish the bottom edge of the lining, rather than regular elastic. When I first tried to attach it, it started to stretch out because it wasn't any shorter than the perimeter of the lining's edge, so I took in the elastic a little.

Below is my third camisole, waiting to be sewn. If you look closely, you can see my modifications to the front of the pattern.



For materials, I used a cotton/spandex blend from Spandex World and found the fold-over elastic and the bra slides at Sew Sassy Fabrics.

I'll try to keep things updated here as often as I can. I've been a bit busier now since I've been taking on sewing projects for other peolple. So even if I'm not posting here much, I am still sewing and hope to share a few pictures of a knit dress that I made sometime soon.

Simplicity 2492 - Bird Apron

Just thought I'd share a few photos of an apron that I made for my sister. Admittedly, this a project that I worked on in December, so these pictures are a little belated (better late than never, right?).





This design comes from Simpicity 2492, and I used quilter's cotton in coordinating prints. The pattern worked well, and I basically made the apron by the instructions, although I did cut the center back of the neckband on the fold, rather than cutting it in two pieces as the pattern suggests. This way, the apron slips over the head instead of having ties at the nape of the neck.



When sewing, I simply enclosed the edges with binding and skipped the reference to extending the binding to make the neck ties.



I made a second apron with this pattern, as well. Hopefully I'll be able to get a few pictures of it soon.

My first Jalie pattern

This is a top that I made over the holiday season and was my last "finished object" of this passing year. I've been wanting to get more practice with sewing knits on my serger, and since Jalie 2921 has earned many positive reviews, I though I'd give it a try. Here are my photos:



There is a scarf that is connected to the neckline that offers several tying options. Here I have it threaded through a slit in the front, and then knotted into a faux "gentleman's tie."





I used a cotton/polyester knit from JoAnn's . . . to be honest it was a little cheap, and as I found when cutting it out, the "horizontal" stripe was not perpendicular to the selvedge. Oh, well. It worked well enough to test this pattern; I cut the garment so that the stripes would be straight, and it still worked out in the end. The photos make the lighter stripe look blue, but it's actually a mint green color.

The pattern is fairly simple to put together, though I had a few tricky moments stitching the center front seam on the serger, since it has a slit left in it for the ties. Aside from this, though, it went together well and I really like this pattern. For those who are interested, I've included more information in my review for this top at PatternReview.com.

Happy New Year!

Just thought I'd put in one last blog entry before this new year (I've been having computer issues lately, so my posts have been few!). This is a dress I made to give as a Christmas gift this year. It's from a pattern called "Felicity's Pretty Clothes"; it was originally published by Pleasant Company for their 18-inch dolls, but now that it's been discontinued, it's available for free download at American Girl Playthings.



The pattern recommends taffeta, but it also worked for my dull-finish satin.



Instructions are included for making an alternate "stomacher" for the bodice, as well.



I love the pattern's dropped shoulder seams and shaped waist detail:



I even made one in pink!



The dress consists of three pieces (not including the alternate stomacher): dress, overskirt, and stomacher. The underskirt sits at the waist, and the dress fastens at the front where the stomacher piece snaps in place.



It's a neat little pattern, although the sleeve trim, skirt pleats and center back waist line can be somewhat tricky. The ribbon trim that goes around the neckline and down the front is pleated and sewn in place by hand, so it is a bit time consuming. One thing I wanted to mention, though, is that the doll for whom the dress is intended needs to be carefully measured and compared to the pattern's waist circumference. The amount of tummy fluff varies from doll to doll, and these patterns have basically no ease (even a doll needs a little wiggle room!) Overall, I really like this design. Aside from a few notions, I was able to make these dresses almost entirely out of scraps of leftover material.